That's likely a problem with your hardware. You can try the following:
Make sure, the temperature sensor is really plugged in. Plug it in. All the way. You hear a "click" when you "kind of" plug in it. Plug it in deeper.
If you're using a 5m extension cable: try it without the extension. We have 2m and 3m available. Just reach out to us!
If you're using a Sonoff TH16 with a PCB reading version "2.1" or you bought your BierBot Brick, the update requires access to the COM-Headers on the PCB. In theory, the BierBot Bricks firmware runnning on your device would allow an update using the WiFi configuration portal. This, however, does not work, since the storage of the Sonoff TH 16 is too small to store both, the old software and the new software at the same time.
Good news: If we figure out a way to reduce the firmware size drastically, this becomes an option in the future without you having to change anything. If you know
C and have an idea how to do that, please feel free to contribute, the code is open source.
Any device, that goes "full-on" after being powered up will work. Full-on means that the device is not "on and waiting for orders" but that it's turning on the heating / cooling / pump right after being connected to a socket. To give you some examples of devices that will work:
A induction plate with a physical control knob, such as the Hendi 3.5kW heating. Just turn the know to 3.5kW (yep, unlike the Inkbird, the BierBot supports 3.5kW).
Any fridge - just set it to maximum cooling.
Any valve/pump for glycol chillers - just keep in mind that the BierBot Brick only outputs AC.
When the BierBot Brick looses it's connection, it will enter a fail-safe state. This means, that the relay is turned off. This is to avoid, that your beer is frozen down to eisbock temperature our your mashtun killing your enzymes.
The BierBot Brick will retry to connect automatically. After successfull re-connection the process will automatically pick up where it was left.